Why This Common Gel Nail Polish Ingredient Just Got Banned in Europe

A common ingredient in gel nail polishes has been banned by the European Union.

In a document obtained by Newsweek, European officials deemed trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (or TPO) as a product believed to be “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction.”

The ban goes into effect immediately. Per The Independent, nail salons in any of the EU’s 27 member states “must now stop selling TPO-based nail gels and safely dispose of all their current stock, while manufacturers must reformulate their products to be TPO-free.”

While TPO has not yet been prohibited in the U.S., the ban could affect the American beauty industry. Due to reformulation requirements, there may be supply chain issues on gel polishes that are manufactured in the EU. The Independent points out that companies that sell their polishes in both Europe and the U.S. may reformulate all of their products to avoid making separate versions.

In light of the ban, Francesca Rapolla of the British trade association CPTA told the nail magazine Scratch that industries could appeal to the EU for an exemption from regulations by proving that there are ways to mitigate risk.

However, in the case of TPO, Rapolla said that “the industry did not, and could not, defend the continued use of this ingredient in nail products, mainly because it could not demonstrate that there are no alternative ingredients to this one.”

Doug Schoon, a scientific expert in the nail industry and founder of Schoon Scientific, told Scratch that the risks of TPO are mitigated by correct application.

“The removal of TPO from nail products doesn’t necessarily impact their performance, but they will require reformulation,” he said. “When used improperly and skin contact is not avoided, TPO can cause skin sensitization or allergic reactions in some individuals. However, adverse effects are rare when products are applied correctly by trained professionals.”

He continues, “Most of the concern over this ingredient involves using TPO in other applications that are not related to nail coatings, such as workers in factories that manufacture printing inks and industrial adhesives.”